Live your best life & take care
Skip-care is a skincare trend that has taken the beauty world by storm for a while now. It is a Korean beauty inspired technique that focuses on simplifying your skin care routine by skipping steps and using multi-purpose products. This skin minimalistic approach will save time, money and reduces the risk of skin irritation caused by the overuse of certain products or combinations.
Skip-care is rooted in the Korean beauty philosophy of ‘less is more’. The skincare industry in South Korea is one of the most innovative and advanced in the world, and they have been leading the way when it comes to skincare trends. The Korean beauty industry is famous for their 10-step skincare routine, which is aimed at improving overall skin health and beauty. However, this long and high-maintenance routine is not for everyone, and this is where skip-care comes in as an alternative approach. It aims to simplify the routine and accessible to people who do not have the time or resources to devote to a lengthy skincare routine.
If you want to go very minimal, you could combine cleanse and tone by using an all-in-one toning cleanser, skip the "treat" step and your skip-care routine is reduced to 2 steps only.
A benefit on top of saving time, money and reducing the risk of irritation is that by simplifying and streamlining your routine, you probably increase compliance. The best skin care routine is still the one you actually adhere to.
Baby skin is different from adult skin: more sensitive and less resilient. It is important to understand the differences, as it influences how to care for baby skin.
At birth, baby skin undergoes a dramatic change from an aqueous (in the womb) to a dry environment. Baby skin, hair, and fingernails all start to form during the first trimester of pregnancy and continue to develop.
RECOMMENDATIONS FOR BABY SKIN CARE
1. Avoid Fragrance and Other Irritants
Fragrances and other irritants can exacerbate skin conditions in babies, such as eczema. Avoid products that contain fragrances, sulfates, and other ingredients that may cause irritation.
2. Use Gentle Cleansers
When bathing your baby, use mild, soap-free cleansers that are specifically formulated for baby skin. Avoid using harsh soaps or chemicals that can strip the skin of natural oils.
3. Avoid Over-Bathing
While it may be tempting to give your baby frequent baths, it is important to avoid over-bathing. Bathing too frequently can dry out the skin and cause irritation. Aim to bathe your baby no more than every other day, or as recommended by your pediatrician.
4. Moisturise Regularly
To help maintain the skin’s natural moisture barrier, apply a gentle, fragrance-free moisturizer to your baby’s skin after bathing. Look for products that are specifically formulated for baby skin, and avoid those that contain ingredients that may cause irritation.
5. Be Sun-Safe
Frequent sunburns and exposure to sunlight in childhood are strongly related to melanoma development; therefore, appropriate measures of photoprotection have been considered to decrease the risk of melanoma and nonmelanoma skin cancer. Since baby skin is more susceptible to damage from UV radiation, it is important to protect your baby from the sun. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen, that is specifically formulated for babies, compliment this with a hat and special UV protective clothes if needed and avoid exposing your baby to direct sunlight during peak hours.
6. Prevent Diaper Rash
Protect babies bum 24/7 from a nasty diaper rash. A safe and affordable product known to prevent, soothes and treats diaper rash is Aquaphor, There are special baby formulations available which can also include ingredients like zinc oxide and pathenol and off course are fragrance fee.
In case of doubts or concerns don't hesitate to consult your pediatrician or pediatric dermatologist.
It was always believed that the moment we are born, is the moment we are exposed to environmental influences. The truth is that there is ample evidence that already during pregnancy the mothers behaviour: smoking or food has a significant impact on how well we age. We know that all skin needs to be protected against UV and HEVIS by using sunscreen, especially in sun exposed areas from birth onwards.
Although you can not start too early taking care of your skin, the right age to start with a well-ageing skin care routine is actually just post-adolescence for 3 reasons.
1. During adolescence most start with their first cleansing and care routines to remove access of sebum, debris and reduce plus prevent break-outs or comedones. Boys may already shave facial hair. So teenagers or young adults are used to a morning- and evening skin care routine which benefits the overall sense of well-being.
2. Most commonly growth stops when puberty ends and this is the moment the degenerative biological process starts, even though there are no visible signs yet.
3. Prevention of pre-mature ageing skin is the most effective and efficient strategy.
SKIN NEEDS CARE
There is a movement stating that normal unproblematic skin doesn't need care. I strongly disagree. The choice of products at this age depends of course on the skin type, skin condition, skin health, and environment (like weather conditions, pollution), however the morning care should always focus on protecting every skin type, using suncreen (UV + HEVIS protection) and ideally complimented by anti-oxidants to reduce damaging free radical activity, while the evening routine should at least include proper cleansing (to remove dirt and pollutants), which may be followed by product catering to specific needs, like for example sebum regulating, barrier repairing or hydrating ingredients. I would not make a differentiation between darker or lighter skin in terms of photoprotection, as dark skin only has a natural SPF of 13.3 and light skin of 3.4, hence both not enough to prevent sun damage. However, dark skin has a lower amount of ceramides in the statum corneum and is therefore more prone to trans-epidermal water loss.
If you are afraid of spoiling your skin and making it "lazy" using skin care for a long time, know that all effects from a dermo-cosmetic product are 100% reversible, thus temporary. This is regulated by law and to enjoy the benefits from skin care, you need to keep using the products. When you stop, your skin will bounce back to it's original state at least after a full regeneration cycle of about 28 days. A few things to avoid are: sun-damage, especially burns, over-exfoliation (damaged skin barrier) and slugging of oily or acne-prone skin (breakouts).
Polynucleotides (PNs) are a type of biomolecule that have recently gained traction in the field of skin care and aesthetic treatments. PNs are composed of multiple nucleotides, which are the building blocks of DNA and RNA. These biomolecules have shown promise in improving the appearance and health of the skin through their ability to stimulate cell growth (activate growth factors), tissue regeneration incl. collagen production, wound healing, fibroblast proliferation and have anti-inflammatory properties.
Polynucleotides (PN) are linear polymers composed of many nucleotide units and they play a key role in the storage and transmission of genetic information. There are two types of polynucleotides (aka nucleic acid) found in nature: ribonucleic acid (RNA) and deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA). As mentioned, PN are composed of nucleotides, which consist of 3 parts: a nitrogenous base, a phosphate group. and a five-carbon sugar (2'-deoxyribose in DNA or ribose in RNA). The five base nucleotides are adenine, guanine, cytosine, thymine, and uracil. A DNA molecule consists of two long polynucleotide chains composed of four types of nucleotide subunits: adenine, thymine, guanine, and cytosine, while RNA uses adenine, guanine, cytosine and uracil.
Regenerative aesthetics is an emerging branch of regenerative medicine with therapies or products aimed at recapturing youthful structure and function using the body's own systems. Examples of such treatments are platelet-rich plasma (PRP), the use of exosomes or polynucleotides.
Dr. Kate Goldie explained soft tissue regeneration fundamentals as following:
1. Regeneration of tissue architecture (structure): tissue composition - component abundance, ratio's, position, density and biomechanics/integrity
2. Regeneration of tissue function: signaling, cell function, cellular components (incl. senescence), gene expression and molecular interaction.
The 3 treatment pillars of regenerative aesthetics are: cells, biocues and bio-stimulatory scaffolds. Key superficial soft quiescent cells are the fibroblasts and adipose derived stem cells. One of the big advantages of regenerative aesthetics is by using the body's own system, the results are natural and focused on "skin health" (function) and "skin quality" (appearance).
POLYNUCLEOTIDES IN REGENERATIVE AESTHETICS
Polynucleotides are most often natural, highly purified DNA molecules extracted for example from trout gonads and activate specialised cells called myofibroblasts and adipocytes. PN containing devices act as short time temporary fillers thanks to the viscoelasticity of the long DNA fragments and improve skin well‐being (cell growth) and steady self‐repair (tissue regeneration). Studies support their dermal reactivating properties or their efficacy as “bioreactivating primers” of skin. The final outcome is more natural and in‐depth tissue regeneration and a healthier look of the skin: a more radiant complexion, even skin tone, reduced appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and sagging, faster wound healing, improved pore size and skin thickness, elasticity and hydration. Furthermore, PNs are generally well-tolerated by the skin and have a low risk of adverse effects. Their effectiveness may vary depending on the individual's skin type, age, and overall health. The long-term effects of PNs on the skin are not yet fully understood, and more research is needed to determine their safety and efficacy. There are various brands available which use polynucleotides in their (meso-) injection gels. For example Mastelli Srl, Italy NEWEST® (Polynucleotide and Hyaluronic Acid) for bio-revitalization, BR Pharm HP Cell Vitaran Skin Healers, NUCLEADYN® or Nucleofill®.
One brand of (synthetic) polynucleotide-based skin care products is Yuva by Dr. Devgan Scientific Beauty. The Yuva line includes a range of products formulated with PNs, such as the Yuva Serum and the Yuva Enhancer. These products are marketed as being able to provide hydrating, anti-aging, and skin-rejuvenating benefits.
THE FUTURE OF POLYNUCLEOTIDES
While polynucleotides have many benefits, they also have some drawbacks. One of the primary limitations is their instability in certain environments. This instability can make it difficult to synthesize and manipulate polynucleotides in the lab. Moreover their are limitations, risks and ethical concerns harvesting or using (human identical) PN's, and long-term safety and efficacy data is not conclusive. However, PNs are a promising area of research in the field of skin care and aesthetic treatments and regeneration. We can expect to see further advancements in the development of PNs-based products and treatments. PNs are already used in combination with other biomolecules, such as hyaluronic acid, growth factors and anti-oxidants and used in combination with other treatments. For a personal recommendation on which aesthetic treatment is most suitable to aesthetically regenerate your skin, please consult an experienced board certified dermatologist, plastic surgeon or cosmetic doctor.
Mood-boosting skin care can be defined as a skin care routine that includes products and/or tools and techniques which (may be specifically designed) enhance our mood and mental well-being in addition to improving the overall health and appearance of the skin.
Research has shown that skin care is becoming more than just a physical experience, but also a therapeutic and emotional one. The role of mood-boosting skin care in providing self-care and supporting mental well-being has become increasingly important and has profound benefits.
These mood boosting routines typically incorporate products that have essential oils that help to relax, uplift, and calm the mind, which in turn, affects an individual's mood positively. However, I am not a big fan of incorporating essential oils in a skin care routine as they can be irritating, cause skin sensitivity, redness and breakouts. Irritation and redness can be signs of sub-clinical inflammation and speed up the biological degenerative process called skin ageing or skin inflammageing. It is not a surprise that dermatologists warn against the use of most essential oils on the skin. When it comes to essential oils, it is best to use them in a diffuser and not skin care. Facial oils can be beneficial however in a skin care routine. Click here to read more about the use of facial oils.
A SPA "ME" MOMENT
The ancient Greeks were the first to suggest that spas and bathing could be used for therapeutic purposes and not just for hygiene and cleanliness (which are basic requirements for good skin health). A warm relaxing bath isn't always good for skin health however (1). On the other side a 20-30 second cold shower after a workout or sauna encourages the release of cold shock proteins. Cold shock proteins may help you maintain your muscle mass when you're too busy to make it to the gym or when you're taking some planned time off your training routine. Some cold shock proteins are known to decrease inflammation and support faster wound healing. Cold water immersion also activates brown fat, tissue that helps keep the body warm and helps it control blood sugar and insulin levels. It helps the body to burn calories, hence to lose weight. Click here to read more.
A SPA BONDING MOMENT
As time is precious, meaningful time together with friends, your partner or your kids, can boost your sense of satisfaction and strengthen bonds. Funny anecdote was that I was "masking" with my son, who was at the time 12 years old. While relaxing he asked me what his mask was actually doing and I told him that it makes you look younger. He immediately asked me to remove it, scared he would look afterwards like 7 years old.
JADE ROLLERS & GUA SHA
I love using (refrigerated) jade rollers and gua sha, especially in the under eye area in the morning to reduce puffiness, increase the circulation and lymph drainage. It is important that the tools glide over the skin, don't tug and thus I apply a nourishing care product first. Moreover, applying skin care products using mindful techniques such as massaging in gentle circular motions can be therapeutic, providing a sense of calm and relaxation.
SKIN CARE ROUTINES
Mindful evening skin care routines have been shown to be particularly beneficial in unwinding after an overwhelming day, helping to reduce stress and induce better sleep. As it turns out, consistent routines provide more stability in your day, which is beneficial for your mental health and stress level regulation. Therewith every morning- and evening skin care routine is mood-boosting.
DO GOOD, FEEL BETTER
If you treat your self and your skin good, it will make your skin look better and even improve your quality of life. Self-care enhances feelings of self-worth, boost self-esteem and can even give a sense of accomplishment, is thus mood boosting, even without the use of aroma therapy or essential oils.
Glycation is one of the basic root causes of endogeneous (intrinsic) skin ageing and a very challenging one or almost impossible one to reverse. Glycation is an ageing reaction which begins in early life, developing clinical symptoms at around 30, and progressively accumulates in tissues and skin due to the glycated collagens that are difficult to be decomposed. Glycation occurs naturally in the body when sugars react with proteins and lipids to form advanced glycation end products (AGEs). AGEs can be exogenously ingested (through food consumption), inhaled via tobacco or endogenously produced and formed both intracellularly and extracellularly. AGE modifications lead to dermal stiffening, diminished contractile capacity of dermal fibroblasts, lack of elasticity in the connective tissues, contribute to hyperpigmentation and a yellowish skin appearance. The formation of AGEs is amplified through exogenous factors, e.g., ultraviolet radiation.
AGEs cause changes in the skin through 3 processes:
One study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology found that levels of AGEs were higher in the skin of older individuals compared to younger ones. The study also showed that there was a correlation between the level of AGEs and the severity of skin ageing. This suggests that inhibiting the production or accumulation of AGEs in the skin is a potential target for anti-ageing interventions or skin ageing management.
AGEs are complex and heterogeneous, more than a dozen AGEs have been detected (however not all) in tissues and can be divided into three categories according to their biochemical properties.
AGEs are formed through four pathways:
GLYCATION INHIBITION IS KEY
AGEs can be crosslinked through side chains to form a substance of very high molecular weight, which is not easily degraded. The consequences from skin glycation are irreversible. This makes prevention or inhibition of the process the best potential strategy to maintain skin health and ageing skin management. One way to do this is by altering the diet to reduce the intake of sugars and carbohydrates, which are known to contribute to glycation. Several studies have found that reducing sugar intake can result in significant improvements in skin health, including reducing wrinkles and improving skin texture.
Another potential strategy is the use of topical agents that inhibit the formation or accumulation of AGEs in the skin. One study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science found that a cream containing carnosine, a peptide that inhibits glycation, improved skin elasticity and reduced the appearance of wrinkles in individuals with ageing skin. Skincare containing NAHP or Acetyl Hydroxyproline inhibits the formation of AGEs significantly (in vitro), most likely through a mechanism where NAHP competes with the proteins for the sugar. Finally, NAHP sacrifices itself in place of the proteins and gets (at least partially) glycated. NAHP also prevents loss of cellular contractile forces in a glycated in vitro dermis model and counteracts the diminished cell-matrix interaction that is caused by glyoxal-induced AGE formation.
Moreover, I would suggest to combine those ingredients with an ingredient like Licochalcone A. Numerous high ranked publications support that Licochalcone A protects cells from oxidative stress mediated by e.g. UV and HEVIS (blue light) induced reactive oxidative species (ROS). Due to the activation and nuclear translocation of the transcription factor NrF2, the expression of anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and detoxifying enzymes are induced. These enzymes protect the skin cells (like keratinocytes and fibroblasts) from ROS-induced damage, like lipid peroxidation and DNA as well as protein damage. If Licochalcone A is combined with L-Ascorbic Acid, (the most active form of Vitamin C), it supporting skin's own collagen production, provides superior biological cell protection amongst other relevant benefits. My absolute favourite product is Eucerin Hyaluron-Filler Vitamin C Booster which I use daily as a serum in my morning routine.
GLYCATION AND SKIN HEALTH
In addition to its role in ageing, glycation in the skin has also been linked to a range of skin health problems. One study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that the level of AGEs in the skin was significantly higher in individuals with acne than in those without acne. The study also showed that treating acne with a topical antibiotic significantly reduced the levels of AGEs in the skin.
Another study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology found that individuals with atopic dermatitis had higher levels of AGEs in their skin than healthy individuals. This suggests that glycation may play a role in the development of inflammatory skin conditions.
Diabetes + Woundhealing
The correlation between high sugar levels and skin ageing can be seen in diabetic patients, where one-third of this population has skin complications. A prominent feature of ageing human skin is the fragmentation of collagen fibers, which severely damages the structural integrity and mechanical properties of the skin. Elevated levels of MMP-1 and MMP-2 and higher crosslinked collagen in the dermis of diabetic skin lead to the accumulation of fragmented and crosslinked collagen, thereby impairing the structural integrity and mechanical properties of dermal collagen in diabetes. Collagen crosslinking makes it impossible for them to easily repair, resulting in reduced skin elasticity and wrinkles. Keratinocytes and fibroblasts are the main cells involved in wound healing, but due to the high glucose (HG) microenvironment in diabetics, the functional state of these cells is impaired, thereby accelerating cellular senescence (programmed cell death).
We can't completely stop the glycation process, therefore it's important that we inhibit it from a young age onwards, hence monitor the sugar intake of our children, use daily SPF and invest in good dermo-cosmetic products containing ingredients like NAHP and powerful anti-oxidants like L-Ascorbid Acid (Vitamin C is needed for the production of collagen) and Licochalcone A (also anti-inflammatory). Preventing signs of ageing, specifically caused by glycation is most effective. If your skin shows (advanced) signs of ageing, you can get visible improvement using skin component (hyaluron, collagen and elastin) bio-stimulating ingredients like Retinol, Bakuchiol, Arctiin, Creatine or Glycine Saponin. Consult your dermatologist if you wish to improve your skin's appearance or skin health issues.
Special thanks: Ph.D. dr Julia M. Weise Manager Biological Testing & Dorothea Schweiger Lab Manager Facial Skin Biology Beiersdorf HQ Hamburg
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