Like epigenetics and exosomes, neurocosmetics represent a revolutionary approach for skin care incorporating neuroscience principles, leveraging the skin-brain connection to improve skin health and beauty. The term itself is a fusion of the words neuroscience and cosmetics. It differs from psychodermatology which like neurocosmetics connects the interaction between mind and skin, but in a different way. Some describe it as how simple sensory stimulation can improve our overall wellbeing and call it "mood beauty", however this doesn't do it justice as neurocosmetics go beyond mood boosting skincare.
DEFINITION NEUROCOSMETICS Dermatologist Professor Laurent Misery back in 2002 described that neurocosmetics are products which are supposed to modulate the neuro-immuno-cutaneous-system (NICS) function at an epidermal level. Skin cells can produce neuromediators, which are mediators for transmission of information between skin, immune and the nervous system. All skin cells express specific receptors for neuromediators and by binding of the neuromediator to its receptor, modulation of cell properties and skin functions are induced like cell differentiation and proliferation (renewal), pigmentation, etc. Hence, keratinocytes, Langerhans cells, melanocytes, endothelial cells, fibroblasts and the other cells of the skin are modulated and controlled by the nerves and in return skin is able to modulate neuronal activity and growth. [1] SKIN-BRAIN CONNECTION In an article from the International Journal of Novel Research and Developments, the skin-brain connection was described as a psychobiological concept that highlights how emotions, stress, and neurotransmitters impact skin health. Indicating that the skin acts as a neuroimmunoendocrine organ, emphasizing its sensitivity to neural signals and stress responses. [4] CUTANEOUS NERVOUS SYSTEM The skin a sophisticated sensory organ that allows you to interact with your environment through touch and feel. It contains a complex network of nerves that send information about sensations like pressure, pain, itch and temperature from the skin through the spinal cord to the brain [9]. The dynamic interactions between the skin and the nervous system is influenced by factors like stress and inflammation, which can impact skin health and ageing. [7] Nerves in the skin: These nerves are like tiny messengers that tell your brain about what your skin is feeling: pressure, heat or pain. Types of nerve fibers: Some are thick and wrapped in a protective coating, which helps them send messages quickly. Others are thin and slow but are very good at sending messages about pain or temperature changes. [3] Sensory receptors: These receptors can tell if something is touching the skin lightly or if there's a lot of pressure. They can also sense if something is hot, cold, or causing pain. [3] Autonomic nervous system: Part of the cutaneous nervous system helps control things that happen in the skin automatically, like sweating to regulate body temperature. [8] Nerve cells: There are about 20 different types of neurons in our skin. [10] The contribution of epidermal keratinocytes to NICS [3]
CUTANEOUS NEURO-AGEING Neuro-ageing is defined as the changes in the nervous system which cause continuous neurodegeneration due to oxidative stress, neuroinflammation or impaired neuromodulation. As skin ages, Aβ-toxin (increased by oxidative stress) accumulates at the nerve endings innervating the tissue, causing disrupted cellular communication, particularly affecting fibroblasts’ ability to produce collagen and extracellular matrix. On top there is a decrease of nerve growth factor (NGF) production, important for the development and maintenance of nerve cells. Different factors can lead to a drop in NGF production, resulting in malfunctioning keratinocytes and reduced lipolytic activity of adipocytes, visibly impacting skin hydration and firmness. [6] Skin nerve fibres are significantly reduced in number following UV irradiation and in ageing skin [5] and therefore neuro-protectors or targetting neurodegeneration can reduce stress manifestations and promote healthy cellular communication for optimal skin function. [3] Although not much is known regarding skin specific or topical neuroprotectors (most research was focussed on the brain), probably potent anti-oxidants, by significantly reducing oxidative stress from UV and blue light and anti-inflammatory ingredients may inhibit skin neuro-ageing and can be neuroprotective especially when combined with sunscreen and strengthening of the skin barrier. NEUROCOSMETIC VARIETY OF ACTIONS
THE FUTURE OF NEUROCOSMETICS The neurocosmetics market is booming, with a projected value of USD 2.69 billion by 2030. [11] The future of neurocosmetics holds promise for innovative ingredients and concepts that harness new neuroscientific insights to revolutionize skin care and sunscreen formulations, to cater to both physical and emotional aspects of skin health and beauty. Take care! Anne-Marie References
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It was always believed that the moment we are born, is the moment we are exposed to environmental influences. The truth is that there is ample evidence that already during pregnancy the mothers behaviour: smoking or food has a significant impact on how well we age. We know that all skin needs to be protected against UV and HEVIS by using sunscreen, especially in sun exposed areas from birth onwards.
Although you can not start too early taking care of your skin, the right age to start with a well-ageing skin care routine is actually just post-adolescence for 3 reasons. 1. During adolescence most start with their first cleansing and care routines to remove access of sebum, debris and reduce plus prevent break-outs or comedones. Boys may already shave facial hair. So teenagers or young adults are used to a morning- and evening skin care routine which benefits the overall sense of well-being. 2. Most commonly growth stops when puberty ends and this is the moment the degenerative biological process starts, even though there are no visible signs yet. 3. Prevention of pre-mature ageing skin is the most effective and efficient strategy. SKIN NEEDS CARE There is a movement stating that normal unproblematic skin doesn't need care. I strongly disagree. The choice of products at this age depends of course on the skin type, skin condition, skin health, and environment (like weather conditions, pollution), however the morning care should always focus on protecting every skin type, using suncreen (UV + HEVIS protection) and ideally complimented by anti-oxidants to reduce damaging free radical activity, while the evening routine should at least include proper cleansing (to remove dirt and pollutants), which may be followed by product catering to specific needs, like for example sebum regulating, barrier repairing or hydrating ingredients. I would not make a differentiation between darker or lighter skin in terms of photoprotection, as dark skin only has a natural SPF of 13.3 and light skin of 3.4, hence both not enough to prevent sun damage. However, dark skin has a lower amount of ceramides in the statum corneum and is therefore more prone to trans-epidermal water loss. LAZY SKIN? If you are afraid of spoiling your skin and making it "lazy" using skin care for a long time, know that all effects from a dermo-cosmetic product are 100% reversible, thus temporary. This is regulated by law and to enjoy the benefits from skin care, you need to keep using the products. When you stop, your skin will bounce back to it's original state at least after a full regeneration cycle of about 28 days. A few things to avoid are: sun-damage, especially burns, over-exfoliation (damaged skin barrier) and slugging of oily or acne-prone skin (breakouts). Take care. 4/23/2023 Comments Mood boosting skin care
Mood-boosting skin care can be defined as a skin care routine that includes products and/or tools and techniques which (may be specifically designed) enhance our mood and mental well-being in addition to improving the overall health and appearance of the skin. Research has shown that skin care is becoming more than just a physical experience, but also a therapeutic and emotional one. The role of mood-boosting skin care in providing self-care and supporting mental well-being has become increasingly important and has profound benefits. ESSENTIAL OILS These mood boosting routines typically incorporate products that have essential oils that help to relax, uplift, and calm the mind, which in turn, affects an individual's mood positively. However, I am not a big fan of incorporating essential oils in a skin care routine as they can be irritating, cause skin sensitivity, redness and breakouts. Irritation and redness can be signs of sub-clinical inflammation and speed up the biological degenerative process called skin ageing or skin inflammageing. It is not a surprise that dermatologists warn against the use of most essential oils on the skin. When it comes to essential oils, it is best to use them in a diffuser and not skin care. Facial oils can be beneficial however in a skin care routine. Click here to read more about the use of facial oils. A SPA "ME" MOMENT The ancient Greeks were the first to suggest that spas and bathing could be used for therapeutic purposes and not just for hygiene and cleanliness (which are basic requirements for good skin health). A warm relaxing bath isn't always good for skin health however (1). On the other side a 20-30 second cold shower after a workout or sauna encourages the release of cold shock proteins. Cold shock proteins may help you maintain your muscle mass when you're too busy to make it to the gym or when you're taking some planned time off your training routine. Some cold shock proteins are known to decrease inflammation and support faster wound healing. Cold water immersion also activates brown fat, tissue that helps keep the body warm and helps it control blood sugar and insulin levels. It helps the body to burn calories, hence to lose weight. Click here to read more. A SPA BONDING MOMENT As time is precious, meaningful time together with friends, your partner or your kids, can boost your sense of satisfaction and strengthen bonds. Funny anecdote was that I was "masking" with my son, who was at the time 12 years old. While relaxing he asked me what his mask was actually doing and I told him that it makes you look younger. He immediately asked me to remove it, scared he would look afterwards like 7 years old. 
JADE ROLLERS & GUA SHA
I love using (refrigerated) jade rollers and gua sha, especially in the under eye area in the morning to reduce puffiness, increase the circulation and lymph drainage. It is important that the tools glide over the skin, don't tug and thus I apply a nourishing care product first. Moreover, applying skin care products using mindful techniques such as massaging in gentle circular motions can be therapeutic, providing a sense of calm and relaxation. SKIN CARE ROUTINES Mindful evening skin care routines have been shown to be particularly beneficial in unwinding after an overwhelming day, helping to reduce stress and induce better sleep. As it turns out, consistent routines provide more stability in your day, which is beneficial for your mental health and stress level regulation. Therewith every morning- and evening skin care routine is mood-boosting. DO GOOD, FEEL BETTER If you treat your self and your skin good, it will make your skin look better and even improve your quality of life. Self-care enhances feelings of self-worth, boost self-esteem and can even give a sense of accomplishment, is thus mood boosting, even without the use of aroma therapy or essential oils. Take care |
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