Chemical or mechanical exfoliation

We can support's skin natural exfoliation process in various ways, for example with mechanical or chemical exfoliation. 

Desquamation (shedding of skin cells thus exfoliation) is an important part of the skin's natural regeneration or renewal process.

Already in our twenties, this process slightly, however increasingly starts to slow down (Kligman 1983). As a result, the cells on the surface of our skin (corneocytes) become bigger (Kligman 1989) and a little disorganised. This leads to a duller appearance (loss of radiance) and a more rough texture of our skin.

A very comprehensive comparison of both methods:

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Mechanical Exfoliation
Abrasive methode, using a tool or scrub to physically remove (rubbing) dead skin cells from the surface.

Common tools used are:
- scrubs 
- brush (like Clarisonic) or dry brush
- sponge
- hand held scrubbing disk (micro-dermabrasion)

Risk: broken capillaries, micro-tears (little wounds) & over-exfoliation.

Chemical Exfoliation (Peeling)
Non-abrasive method using "acids" to "dissolve" dead skin cells from the surface.

Most common acids used are:
- Alpha hydroxy acids (example: glycol acid, lactic acid and citric acid),
​- Beta hydroxy acids (example: salicylic acid)
- Poly hydroxy acids (example: gluconolactone)

Benefit: no scrubbing or rubbing necessary and depending on the need and strength can be used daily. Suitable (depending on combination used) for many different skin types, from dry or acne-prone skin, to very sensitive or more fragile mature skin.

Risk: intolerability & over-exfoliation.

The word "acid" unfortunately sounds very harsh and skin-unfriendly. Many acids are actually skin's own, like for example lactic acid is a skin's own natural moisturising factor (NMF) and so is hyaluronic acid. The level of NMF's decrease as we age and our skin my lose the ability to maintain well hydrated. Many years ago the benefits of lactic acid were capitalised by using baths filled with donkey milk. Citric acid is commonly used in skin care products and toners to balance skin's pH. Gluconolactone is only gradually penetrates skin and is very gentle. 

It's unfortunate that "acids" have such a negative connotation, as our skin (healthy and problematic) can benefit if we use them regularly. Moreover, I prefer this method over mechanical exfoliation for all skin types, however particularly if you have dry skin, acne- or redness prone skin, sensitive skin or mature skin. 

The risk of exfoliation is over-exfoliation. Over-exfoliation is damage of our skin barrier and the symptoms are very comparable to dry or (hyper) sensitive skin symptoms, which are: redness, irritation, tightness, excessive dryness, dry patches, flaking skin, uncomfortable stinging, or even burning sensation. Whenever you experience one or more symptoms of over-exfoliation, it's recommended to reduce the number of times you exfoliate and support the skin barrier repair with a moisturiser.

Hope you enjoy healthy skin & take care.