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2/1/2026 Comments Is skin purging real? The word “purging” is currently frequently used on social media for almost any breakout after starting a new product and often framed as skin needing to get worse before it gets better.¹ In medicine this is not an official diagnosis, however dermatologists do sometimes see a short phase where acne gets a bit worse in the first weeks of treatment and then clearly improves.¹⁻³ This pattern has been documented mainly for topical prescription retinoids, oral isotretinoin and superficial chemical peels.¹⁻⁵ By contrast, ingredients such as niacinamide, cosmetic strength retinal, retinol and bakuchiol do not show the same clear “purge curve” in controlled studies, even though they are often labelled as “retinoid like” online.⁶⁻¹³ This article explains what purging is, which ingredients truly cause it, how long it tends to last and what the science says about popular actives like niacinamide, vitamin C, retinal, retinol and bakuchiol. HOW ACNE FORMS AND WHY PURGING CAN HAPPEN Every acne lesion starts as a tiny blocked pore under the skin, called a microcomedone.¹˒¹⁴ Over time this can develop into a visible whitehead or blackhead and then sometimes into an inflamed papule or pustule.¹˒¹⁴ Treatments that change how skin cells shed inside the pore or that strongly normalise follicular keratinisation can speed up the transition from microcomedone to visible lesion.¹⁻⁴˒¹⁴ This includes retinoic acid strength prescription retinoids and some chemical peels. When they are started, many hidden clogs can surface within a short period, making it look as though “new” acne has appeared.¹⁻⁵  In a true purge, the breakout: ▌Appears in areas where you already get acne ▌Looks like your usual type of acne ▌Starts soon after beginning or increasing a comedolytic treatment ▌Then slowly settles as overall acne improves In contrast, allergic or strong irritant reactions often bring burning or stinging, marked redness and sometimes bumps in new areas that were not acne prone. AGENTS WITH SOLID EVIDENCE FOR EARLY FLARES Prescription topical retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene, etc.) Topical retinoids are first line treatments for comedonal and inflammatory acne and act by normalising cell turnover within the follicle.¹˒²˒⁴ In a pooled analysis of phase 3 trials, tretinoin 0.025% gel used in mild acne caused a measurable early flare in some patients, defined as at least a 10% increase in inflammatory lesions at week 2.² About 15.4% of patients on tretinoin alone met this flare definition compared with 8.7% on vehicle.² In the same analysis, a clindamycin 1.2% and tretinoin 0.025% fixed combination did not show a statistically significant flare at week 2, suggesting that adding an anti inflammatory and antibacterial partner can mitigate this effect.² Clinical reviews summarise that redness, dryness and a small temporary rise in spots are most common in weeks 1 to 3, while overall lesion counts typically fall over 8 to 12 weeks.¹˒²˒⁴ Oral isotretinoin Oral isotretinoin is reserved for severe, scarring or treatment resistant acne. It reduces sebum production and exerts strong comedolytic and anti inflammatory effects.¹˒⁵ Early flares are well described. They tend to occur in patients with many large comedones and in younger males.⁵ One study found that multiple comedones, male sex and young age were linked to a higher risk of flare, while very severe flares remained uncommon.⁵ Guidelines therefore recommend starting isotretinoin at about 0.5 mg/kg/day and increasing to 1 mg/kg/day as tolerated.¹˒⁵ This gradual approach helps control early worsening and mucocutaneous side effects while preserving long term efficacy.¹˒⁵  AGENTS WITH SOLID EVIDENCE FOR EARLY FLARES Prescription topical retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene, etc.) Topical retinoids are first line treatments for comedonal and inflammatory acne and act by normalising cell turnover within the follicle.¹˒²˒⁴ In a pooled analysis of phase 3 trials, tretinoin 0.025% gel used in mild acne caused a measurable early flare in some patients, defined as at least a 10% increase in inflammatory lesions at week 2.² About 15.4% of patients on tretinoin alone met this flare definition compared with 8.7% on vehicle.² In the same analysis, a clindamycin 1.2% and tretinoin 0.025% fixed combination did not show a statistically significant flare at week 2, suggesting that adding an anti inflammatory and antibacterial partner can blunt this effect.² Clinical reviews summarise that redness, dryness and a small temporary rise in spots are most common in weeks 1 to 3, while overall lesion counts typically fall over 8 to 12 weeks.¹˒²˒⁴ Superficial chemical peels and strong AHAs or BHAs Superficial chemical peels using glycolic acid, salicylic acid or salicylic–mandelic blends are widely used in acne and post acne marks.³˒¹²⁻¹⁵ A systematic review of superficial peels for acne identified multiple randomized controlled trials and found that these procedures do improve acne severity but that flare ups can occur as adverse events.³ In one glycolic acid trial about 12% of patients in the peel group experienced flares while no flares occurred in the placebo group, although this difference was not statistically robust.³ Other studies comparing 35% glycolic acid with 20% salicylic–10% mandelic or phytic acid peels showed significant lesion reductions by 12 weeks.¹³⁻¹⁵ Across these studies, typical side effects included transient flare ups, erythema, dryness and scaling.³˒¹²⁻¹⁵ These data support a picture where peels can both help acne and temporarily make it look worse in some patients early in a treatment course. Benzoyl peroxide Benzoyl peroxide is antibacterial and mildly comedolytic and is a standard treatment for inflammatory acne.¹⁶ Detailed prospective data on week 2 flares are limited, but academic patient guidance notes that acne can look worse at first on benzoyl peroxide and that improvement is usually seen after 4 to 6 weeks.¹⁶ When benzoyl peroxide is combined with adapalene in fixed dose products, clinical trials generally show a steady decline in lesion counts, and early flares appear milder than with tretinoin monotherapy.³˒¹²˒¹⁶ OTHER INGREDIENTS WITHOUT STRONG PURGING EVIDENCE Niacinamide: more helper than trigger Niacinamide is frequently accused online of causing purging, yet its documented clinical profile is largely anti inflammatory and barrier supportive.⁶⁻⁹˒¹¹ A review of nicotinamide in dermatology found benefits in acne and other inflammatory conditions and reported a generally mild side effect profile.⁶ In a split face randomized trial, a ceramide and niacinamide containing moisturizer used alongside adapalene 0.1% and benzoyl peroxide 5% improved lesion counts and barrier function compared with a hydrophilic cream, without a higher rate of early flares.⁷ A clinical study of a dermocosmetic serum containing a multi acid complex plus niacinamide in acne prone skin showed significant improvement in acne severity and texture over 8 weeks. Only a few cases of mild, short lived discomfort were reported.⁸ Niacinamide has also been shown to improve melasma and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation with good tolerability.⁹⁻¹¹ Based on current evidence, niacinamide is better described as a supportive co ingredient that improves tolerance of acne therapies than as a purging trigger.⁶⁻⁸ Do retinal and retinol cause purging? Retinal and retinol are vitamin A derivatives used mainly in cosmetic products for texture and photoageing. They are often grouped with medical retinoids, but their clinical data tell a more nuanced story.¹²˒¹⁷⁻²⁰ Within the retinoid pathway, retinal needs only a single conversion step to become active retinoic acid in the skin, whereas retinol requires two steps and most retinol esters or other derivatives require three, which makes them progressively less potent and slower acting in vivo. A pilot study of a 0.05% retinaldehyde loaded niosome nanoemulsion in 23 participants with mild to moderate acne found a significant reduction in open and closed comedones after 2 and 4 weeks.¹⁷ Sebum levels and desquamation indices decreased, and the product was well tolerated, with no serious adverse events reported and no documented early spike in lesion counts.¹⁷ An earlier randomized trial tested retinaldehyde 0.1% gel used once daily with erythromycin 4% lotion versus erythromycin alone in acne vulgaris.¹⁸ Both groups had significant reductions in papules and pustules. Comedones and microcysts improved significantly in the retinaldehyde plus erythromycin group but not with erythromycin alone. Local tolerance was described as very satisfactory, with only a few irritation cases and no emphasis on initial flaring.¹⁸ Most cosmetic retinol data come from photoageing studies, which mainly report irritation signs such as scaling, burning or stinging.¹⁹˒²⁰ These studies do not show a reproducible pattern of early acne flares followed by clear improvement in the way seen with tretinoin in acne trials.²˒⁴ Taken together, the existing evidence for retinal and retinol suggests: ▌They can improve comedones or photoageing signs over several weeks.¹⁷⁻²⁰ ▌They often cause some irritation at higher strengths.¹⁹˒²⁰ ▌They have not been shown to cause a consistent, quantifiable “purge then improve” acne pattern like prescription tretinoin.²˒⁴ What about bakuchiol
Bakuchiol is a plant derived compound that influences many of the same genes as retinol and is often called a “natural retinol alternative”.²¹⁻²³ In a 12 week randomized, double blind trial, 44 patients applied either bakuchiol 0.5% cream twice daily or retinol 0.5% cream once daily for facial photoageing.²¹ Both groups showed significant reductions in wrinkle surface area and pigmentation, with no statistical difference in efficacy, but retinol users reported more scaling and stinging.²¹ A comprehensive review of topical bakuchiol concluded that it behaves as a functional retinol analogue for photoageing with minimal side effects and better tolerance.²²⁻²³ In vivo and ex vivo work shows multi directional activity on collagen, pigmentation and oxidative stress but does not report early acne worsening as a consistent feature.²²⁻²³ So while bakuchiol is “retinol like” in terms of gene expression and anti ageing, the available data suggest: ▌It is often better tolerated than retinol.²¹ ▌It does not show a clear acne purge pattern in clinical studies.²¹⁻²³ Vitamin C and other trendy actives Vitamin C serums are often blamed online for “purging”, but clinical studies of topical ascorbic acid focus mainly on photoageing and pigmentation rather than acne.³˒⁹˒²⁴ These trials sometimes report stinging, burning or erythema as side effects, yet they do not show the characteristic early acne flare with later improvement that is documented for prescription retinoids and isotretinoin.¹˒²˒⁵˒²⁴ Vitamin C is not a proven purging agent, and breakouts after starting a vitamin C product are more likely due to irritation, the vehicle or an underlying acne fluctuation than to a true mechanistic “purge”.¹˒²˒³˒⁵˒²⁴ PURGING VS IRRITATION
HOW LONG DOES PURGING LAST WHEN IT HAPPENS Across agents that truly cause purging, the pattern is broadly similar. Purging, if it occurs, tends to appear in the first 1 to 3 weeks of a new treatment and then settles over the next 4 to 12 weeks as total lesion counts drop.¹⁻⁵˒³˒¹²⁻¹⁵ With topical prescription retinoids, the peak of dryness, redness and extra spots is usually between weeks 1 and 3, with clearer improvements by weeks 8 to 12.²⁻⁴ With isotretinoin, early flares are most common at higher starting doses and in those with many macrocomedones.¹˒⁵ With peels, selective patients may notice a flare after the first or second treatment, while repeated sessions over several weeks show net reductions in lesions.³˒¹²⁻¹⁵ Provided the treatment is continued at a tolerable intensity and there are no signs of severe reaction, purging generally resolves without leaving new scarring.¹˒²˒⁵ IS PURGING AN OILY-SKIN TYPE PROBLEM Clinical data do not support the idea that only oily skin can purge. In the isotretinoin flare study, the main risk factors were multiple comedones, male sex and younger age. Seborrhoea as such was not singled out as a separate predictor.⁵ In the tretinoin flare analysis, flares occurred in some patients with mild acne regardless of skin type.² Peel trials included a mix of Fitzpatrick phototypes and baseline skin characteristics, with flare ups reported across this spectrum.³˒¹²⁻¹⁵ In practice, any person with a significant microcomedone burden can experience purging when a strong comedolytic therapy is started, even if their skin is not very oily.¹˒³ MANAGING AND MINIMISING PURGING Dose and frequency For isotretinoin, starting at about 0.5 mg/kg/day and then increasing as tolerated is standard to reduce early flares and mucosal side effects.¹˒⁵ For topical retinoids, beginning with every second night application, or using a lower strength and increasing slowly, is widely used to lower irritation and perceived flares.¹⁻⁴ Combinations and barrier support Combining tretinoin with clindamycin reduced flare rates compared with tretinoin alone in a phase 3 analysis, showing the value of pairing retinoids with anti inflammatory therapy.² In severe nodulocystic acne at high risk of fulminant flares, short term systemic corticosteroids with isotretinoin can be helpful.¹˒⁵ Barrier supportive skincare also matters. In the split face study, a ceramide and niacinamide moisturizer used with adapalene and benzoyl peroxide improved barrier function and acne outcomes without increasing flares compared with a hydrophilic cream.⁷ Gentle cleansers, non comedogenic moisturizers and sunscreen lower irritation and help patients stay on course through any mild purge.⁶⁻⁸ When to seek medical review Mild, temporary worsening of usual type acne in usual areas can often be managed with dose or frequency reductions and supportive skincare.¹⁻⁴ Red flags include sudden painful nodules, many new cysts, spread to new body areas or systemic symptoms such as fever or joint pain, which require medical review and often a change in therapy.¹˒⁵ CAN PURGING BE PREVENTED Purging cannot always be avoided, but several steps can reduce the risk and severity. ▌Treat large comedones before starting isotretinoin, for example with extraction. This may reduce the chance of sharp early flares.¹ ▌Start both isotretinoin and topical retinoids “low and slow” and increase only as tolerated.¹⁻⁵ ▌Add anti inflammatory and barrier supportive partners such as clindamycin with tretinoin or ceramide and niacinamide moisturizers alongside retinoid or benzoyl peroxide regimens.²˒⁷ ▌Avoid stacking multiple strong actives at the same time. Peel studies show that even one peel can cause flare ups, so combining peels with strong retinoids and high strength benzoyl peroxide from day one is often unnecessary and risky.³˒¹²⁻¹⁵ Setting realistic expectations is equally important. Patients who know that a short, limited flare is possible and temporary are less likely to abandon effective therapy early.¹⁻⁴ KEY POINTS ▌Purging is a short lived, treatment linked increase in visible acne that happens when potent comedolytic therapies push already clogged pores to the surface faster.¹⁻⁵ ▌It has been clearly documented for topical prescription retinoids, oral isotretinoin and superficial chemical peels, and is sometimes seen with benzoyl peroxide; niacinamide, cosmetic retinal or retinol, bakuchiol and vitamin C do not have comparable purge data.¹⁻⁸˒¹²⁻¹⁷˒²¹⁻²⁴ ▌Niacinamide does not show a purge pattern in trials and instead often improves inflammation and barrier function.⁶⁻⁸ ▌Cosmetic retinal, retinol and bakuchiol can irritate at higher strengths but have not been shown to cause a consistent, quantified acne purge like tretinoin or isotretinoin.¹⁷⁻²³ ▌Purging is not limited to oily skin and depends more on comedone load and treatment strength and schedule.¹⁻⁵ ▌Smart dosing, thoughtful combinations and barrier support can reduce flares and improve adherence so that patients reach the real benefits of therapy.¹⁻⁵˒⁷ This content is for informational and educational purposes only and is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease, nor to replace individual medical advice; always consult a qualified healthcare professional to determine the most appropriate approach for your personal needs and goals. Take care! Anne-Marie References
Comments
Reading the instructions on cleansing and care products can be misleading. When do I pat my skin dry first or when do I apply the product on damp skin? Even many recommendations from skin care guru's or skinfluencers are not completely correct.
In general it is recommended to apply a serum, eye care or moisturising / hydrating care product on damp skin, or immediately after bathing for the following reasons: Increased Absorption The primary benefit of applying skin care products to damp skin is that the skin is more receptive to the ingredients. Water helps to increase the hydration levels of the skin cells, which then improves the absorption of the skincare products. When the skin is damp, the skin's surface is more permeable, allowing the ingredients in the skin care products to penetrate deeper into the skin, and work their magic. Absorbing the ingredients more effectively, this leads to better results. The exception are products which require a very low pH level to penetrate, and be more effective, for example L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) and chemical exfoliating "acids" like hydroxy acids. The reason is that water has a pH level of 7-8, acidic formulations will be "neutralised" on damp skin. Better hydration Applying skin care products to damp skin helps to lock in moisture, leaving your skin feeling soft, supple, and hydrated. Hydration is critical for the skin because it helps to maintain and restore the skin's barrier function. The skin barrier protects the skin from losing hydration and prevents irritants and bacteria from entering. Applying serums and moisturisers on damp skin, increases the hydration benefits from the products. Improved spreadability Another advantage of applying skincare on damp skin is that it helps to improve the spreadability of the product. When we apply products such as serum or moisturiser to dry skin, they tend to settle in one area and can be challenging to spread evenly. On the other hand, when applied to damp skin, the skin care products can spread easily and evenly across the skin surface, ensuring maximum coverage and benefit. The exception are lipid rich products which are hydrophobe (water repelling), for example ointments, they might not spread evenly or easy on damp skin. Enhanced performance Applying skin care products to damp skin has been shown to improve their performance. This is because when products are applied to damp skin, they are less likely to evaporate, and the ingredients remain active for longer. This increased contact time with the skin leads to better, more effective results. The exception are products containing vitamin A, retinoids, tretinoin, retinal, retinol, retinaldehyde as damp skin increases the risk of irritation. Sensitive and hyper-sensitive skin Usually people with sensitive and hyper-sensitive skin have an impaired skin barrier function, hence ingredients will penetrate better in comparison to a resilient and well-functioning skin barrier. Applying products on (hyper)sensitive skin will therefore increase the risk of irritations. Be mindful which ingredients you use and use a pH rebalancing toner after cleansing and prior to any serum or care product you use. A toner is anyway an affordable product, which I highly recommend to use in every skin care routine. Read more. Study results on patients with dry skin and healthy volunteers In healthy subjects, compared to at control sites, the Stratum Corneum Water Content (SCW) was significantly higher at sites treated with the moisturizer immediately after bathing, with 1.0 and 2.0 mg/cm2 of the moisturizer, and with once- and twice-daily applications. In patients with dry skin, the SCW was significantly higher compared to control sites after 8 weeks when the moisturizer was applied twice daily. Read more. Take care. 3/16/2023 Comments Why slugging should not go viral
One of the current trends in skin care which I don't recommend for most skin types is "slugging". It means that a thick layer of an occlusive or semi-occlusive petrolatum-based product is applied most often shortly prior to bedtime.
One of the benefits of slugging is that this thick layer is acting like an extra barrier for the skin, hence reducing trans-epidermal water loss and penetration of particle matter or irritants. However, for a normal, combination or oily skin with an intact barrier slugging doesn't make any sense and will increase the risk of the development of milia (milk spots) are small, white cysts on your skin especially seen in the under-eye area, comedones (white - or blackheads) and worse papules (inflamed bumps) or pusteles ( a papule with a white or yellow tip). Moreover, a thick layer of product will rub off on your pillow case during the night. Slugging might make sense if your skin barrier is compromised (not intact), for example after a chemical peeling, more invasive laser treatment, over-exfoliation, or when you have extreme dry (lipid lacking) or dehydrated (water lacking) skin. It might also help to prevent irritants or allergens to enter the skin, hence decrease barrier related skin (hyper)sensitivity. However, I would "slug" very consciously and on recommendation of the dermatologist or plastic surgeon after a procedure as there are fantastic products available in the pharmacy or drugstore for (hyper)sensitive, (extreme) dry or dehydrated skin without risking slugging-related skin problems. Instead of a 100% petrolatum-based product, Aquaphor might be a better option at all times (also extreme cold weather), as it doesn't contain water (no risk of freezing), does contain humectants (they can bind and attract water), is semi-occlusive (protects but still "breaths"), is dermatologist recommended, affordable, available in a spray (no touch), tube, or tub and very well researched (evidence based) for a large variety of purposes. Take care 9/2/2018 Comments Dermaplaning
Dermaplaning is an exfoliation method done by dermatologists, plastic surgeons or aestheticians using a 10 gauge scalpel to gently scrape off the top layer of dulling dead skin cells in order to reveal a smoother fresh skin surface.
Furthermore you achieve a smoother make-up application as it also removes facial hair and peach fuzz or vellus hair. Cosmetic dermatologists sometimes use dermaplaning to help to prepare the skin for procedures like laser treatments and chemical peels as it creates a more optimal "canvas" to work with. As the top layer of the skin is removed, it would allow better penetration of skincare products. Dermaplaning is supposed to be suitable for almost all skin types except those with active acneic skin. However, I would be careful if you have fragile skin, are prone to get broken capillaries, red dots or redness. If done well, the procedure is painless and is comparable to shaving. Prior to the procedure, the skin will need to be cleaned and dried. Sometimes AHA and BHA (Alpha & Beta Hydroxy Acids) or a combination of both are used as preparation. The skin is pulled taut with one hand, and in the other hand a sterile 10 gauge blade (scalpel) is placed on the skin in a 45 degree angle. With short strokes, the dead skin cells and peach fuzz is "shaved" off. Dermaplaning instantly improves the skin's texture. The skin surface will feel very smooth. There is no downtime, however you may be left with some redness or sensitivity. It is claimed that vellus hair does not regrow darker or stronger, it just might feel different as the ends are cut off straight. However, speaking to dermatologists with experience in dermaplaning, they gave a clear warning that they did see a more coarse hair regrowth in costumers with darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick scale 3 or higher). There are some devices developed for dermaplaning at home. One of those devices is called Dermaflash and the device is shown in the article picture. It's currently only available in the US. I did try the Dermaflash. The design looks aesthetically pleasing, but found it to be quite large, thus suitable for bigger areas like the cheeks, however more difficult to use when more precision is requered around the brows, lips and nose. Some use a smaller and very affordable eyebrow razor. Although you may get satisfactory results after using a home device, the safest and best results you will obtain when dermaplaning is done by a professional. The treatment results will keep approximately 3 - 4 weeks. Ask your health care provider if dermaplaning would be a suitable exfoliation method for you. Personally, I prefer the use of gentle acids over any mechanical form of exfoliation, however both methods don't remove facial vellus hair. That could be a valid reason to opt for dermaplaning. Don't forget to use adequate sunscreen afterwards. click here to read more about chemical vs mechanical exfoliation Take care. 7/22/2018 Comments Chemical or mechanical exfoliation
We can support's skin natural exfoliation process in various ways, for example with mechanical or chemical exfoliation.
Desquamation (shedding of skin cells thus exfoliation) is an important part of the skin's natural regeneration or renewal process. Already in our twenties, this process slightly, however increasingly starts to slow down (Kligman 1983). As a result, the cells on the surface of our skin (corneocytes) become bigger (Kligman 1989) and a little disorganised. This leads to a duller appearance (loss of radiance) and a more rough texture of our skin. A very comprehensive comparison of both methods:
The word "acid" unfortunately sounds very harsh and skin-unfriendly. Many acids are actually skin's own, like for example lactic acid is a skin's own natural moisturising factor (NMF) and so is hyaluronic acid. The level of NMF's decrease as we age and our skin my lose the ability to maintain well hydrated. Many years ago the benefits of lactic acid were capitalised by using baths filled with donkey milk. Citric acid is commonly used in skin care products and toners to balance skin's pH. Gluconolactone is only gradually penetrates skin and is very gentle.
It's unfortunate that "acids" have such a negative connotation, as our skin (healthy and problematic) can benefit if we use them regularly. Moreover, I prefer this method over mechanical exfoliation for all skin types, however particularly if you have dry skin, acne- or redness prone skin, sensitive skin or mature skin. The risk of exfoliation is over-exfoliation. Over-exfoliation is damage of our skin barrier and the symptoms are very comparable to dry or (hyper) sensitive skin symptoms, which are: redness, irritation, tightness, excessive dryness, dry patches, flaking skin, uncomfortable stinging, or even burning sensation. Whenever you experience one or more symptoms of over-exfoliation, it's recommended to reduce the number of times you exfoliate and support the skin barrier repair with a moisturiser. Hope you enjoy healthy skin & take care. |
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