If you've scrolled through Instagram, you may have caught a glimpse of dermatologists raving about LED masks emitting red light, the secret, evidenced based weapon behind skin rejuvenation known as photo biomodulation. It uses low-powered light within the red to near-infrared range (wavelengths from 632 to 1064 nm) to induce a biological reaction aka stimulate cellular processes. The wonders of red light, also known as LLLT (low-level laser therapy), PBM (red light photo-biomodulation), or PBMT (photo-biomodulating therapy), extend far beyond non-invasive skin rejuvenation. I am not a fan of devices for home use, mostly because of lacking safety and/or efficacy, PBM definitely earned it's prominent spot in my skincare routine. 

A summary of the benefts of red light with and without near infrared light for skin
Numerous studies have demonstrated the effectiveness of red and infrared light therapy for skin rejuvenation. A combination of red light and near IR light has proven to stimulate the production of collagen (I & III) plus elastin production (Li WH et al Int J Cosmet Sci 2021), enhance mitochondrial ATP production, cell signaling, growth factor synthesis, rebalance ROS (reactive oxidative species) and reduce inflammation. Stem cells can be activated allowing tissue repair and healing. Wrinkle and scar reduction was observed and it can reduce UV damage both as treatment and prophylactic measure. In pigmentary disorders such as vitiligo, it can increase pigmentation by melanocyte proliferation and reduce depigmentation by inhibiting autoimmunity (Pinar Avci et al. Semin Cutan Med Surg. 2013 & Mitchell J Winkie et al. Review Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed A focused review of visible light therapies for vitiligo 2024). It has the potential to activate both keratinocytes (epidermis) and fibroblasts (epidermal junction and dermis). With consistent use, you can expect a reduction of lines and wrinkles, improvement of skin tone and texture. PBMT (when done effective and safe) will compliment both your skin rejuvenating and regenerating at home skincare regimen and in-office procedures or even post-surgical skin recovery.

ATP
ATP (adenosine triphosphate) is the primary source of energy for cellular processes and plays a crucial role in various biological functions. When red light with specific wavelengths (630 nm to 638 nm and 810 nm) is absorbed by the skin cells, it stimulates the mitochondria, which are the powerhouses of the cells responsible for ATP synthesis. This increase in ATP production is providing cells with more energy to carry out their functions effectively and has several beneficial effects on the skin like boosting cellular metabolism, promoting more efficient nutrient uptake and waste removal. The increased ATP levels facilitate collagen synthesis by fibroblasts, a vital component for skin structure, elasticity and firmness and reduction of lines and wrinkles.. ATP aids in the repair and regeneration of damaged skin cells. It accelerates the healing process, making it beneficial for wound healing, post-surgical recovery, and addressing skin issues such as acne scars.

​ROS (Reactive Oxidative Species)
By modulating ROS levels, red light therapy helps reduce oxidative stress and its detrimental effects on the skin. ROS are highly reactive molecules that are naturally produced by cells as byproducts of metabolic processes. While low levels of ROS play important roles in cellular signaling and immune responses, excessive ROS can lead to oxidative stress and damage to cells and tissues. Restoring the balance of ROS result in improved skin health, reduced inflammation, and enhanced skin rejuvenation. Red light therapy has been shown to modulate reactive oxidative species (ROS) levels in the skin by promoting antioxidant defense mechanisms and reducing oxidative stress:

• Antioxidant Enzyme Activation: Stimulation of antioxidant enzymes such as superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase, and glutathione peroxidase. These enzymes play a crucial role in neutralizing and detoxifying ROS, preventing their accumulation and harmful effects.
• Mitochondrial Function Enhancement: By enhancing mitochondrial respiration and reducing electron leakage, red light therapy helps maintain the balance between ROS production and elimination.
• Nitric Oxide Regulation: Nitric oxide can interact with ROS, leading to the formation of peroxynitrite, a highly reactive molecule. By regulating NO levels, red light therapy helps prevent the excessive formation of peroxynitrite and subsequent oxidative damage.
• Redox Signaling: Activation of redox-sensitive signaling pathways like Nrf2 enhances the expression of antioxidant genes, leading to increased ROS scavenging capacity.

The difference between LLLT and PBM
LLLT refers specifically to the use of lasers, which produce coherent, focussed and an intense beam of monochromatic light, while PBM has a broader range of light sources, may include laser as well as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and other non-laser devices. LEDs are often used in PBM because they are cost effective, versatile and have the ability to cover large treatment areas. LLT uses higher power densities with more energy and has a shorter treatment duration in comparison to PBM to achieve desired therapeutic effects. While there are similarities in terms of mode of action", there is a difference of light source, treatment application and parameters. Based on consensus, PBM and PBMT are considered the correct way to describe this photonic specialty for therapeutic applications. In this post I will focus on PBM and specifically LEDs.

LED masks and LED panels
LED masks specifically produced by the brand Omnilux (FDA cleared) are currently very popular for very good reasons; they are safe and effective when the LEDs emit the right wavelengths and used in the recommended frequency. Omnilux combines 2 therapeutically effective and complimentary wavelengths: 633nm and near-infrared 830 nm. Both wavelengths (more precise 630nm + 850nm) I would recommend to minimally look for in any red LED device, which will disqualify most LED masks and panels in the market! I've include some (not affiliated) links to devices below. Both masks and panels can be effective, however most panels are stronger in comparison to masks 60 mW/cm² vs mW/cm²), hence have the benefit of a shorter treatment time to get a similar result. Intensity and power of red light therapy devices are typically measured in terms of irradiance (measured in milliwatts per square centimeter, mW/cm²) and radiant flux (measured in watts, W), which quantify the amount of light energy emitted by the device. Wearing a mask during a hot summer or in a warmer climate will make you sweat and depending on the materials of the mask and straps, they may be very uncomfortable to wear. Panels have the benefit that they give a more even distribution of emitted light as masks are worn on the face and thus the LED bulbs are pushed on a small skin surface area, panels can cover a larger area (depending on their size) and are more versatile in use, as area's like neck, décolletage, or knees are easier to treat with a panel. With a mask you may be more mobile, although I would not recommend walking around while using the mask. My personal preference would be a panel for the reasons mentioned before and panels are more suitable (more hygienic) for family sharing. My son can use it after an intense workout to speed up his recovery and I like to use it for purposes beyond photo-biomodulation or skin rejuvenation, for example to improve my sleep. With a panel I get more "bang for my buck".

Red light and NIR (Near Infra Red light) have the ability to penetrate varying depths of the skin, resulting in distinct benefits, thus combinations of wavelengths will provide complementary effects.

630 nm Wavelength
This wavelength is often used for its skin rejuvenation benefits. It has a relatively shallow penetration depth and is absorbed closer to the surface of the skin primarily affecting the epidermis. 630nm light is associated with increased circulation, reduce inflammation, improved skin tone & texture, aiding in the delivery of nutrients and oxygen to skin cells, and stimulating the production of collagen, leading to improved skin elasticity and a reduction of the appearance of fine lines & wrinkles. 
660 nm Wavelength
At 660nm, red light can penetrate a little deeper into the skin, reaching the dermis. It is known for its ability to stimulate collagen production, enhance cellular metabolism, and promote anti-inflammatory effects, helping to reduce redness and inflammageing. It also promotes wound healing, making it beneficial for post-surgical or post-trauma skin recovery.
810 nm Wavelength
Improve healing & recovery & accelerate wound healing.
830 nm Wavelength
Accelerate healing, reduce infection, improve aesthetic outcome following plastic surgery, increase endorfines (mood-enhancing), improve bone repair and growth.
850 nm Wavelength
Improve general inflammation body, enhance muscle recovery, improve wound healing, reduced fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.

Always consult a qualified healthcare professional or dermatologist to determine if and what the most suitable red light therapy approach is for your particular skin condition and rejuvenation goals. 

Take care!

References:
Hamblin, Michael R. "Mechanisms and applications of the anti-inflammatory effects of photobiomodulation." AIMS biophysics 4.3 (2017): 337-361.
Barolet, Daniel. Regulation of Skin Collagen Metabolism In Vitro Using a Pulsed 660 nm LED Light Source: Clinical Correlation with a Single-Blinded August 2009Journal of Investigative Dermatology 129(12):2751-9
Wunsch A, Matuschka K. (2014). A controlled trial to determine the efficacy of red and near-infrared light treatment in patient satisfaction, reduction of fine lines, wrinkles, skin roughness, and intradermal collagen density increase. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 16(5), 232-237.
Avci P, et al. (2013). Low-level laser (light) therapy (LLLT) in skin: stimulating, healing, restoring. Seminars in Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, 32(1), 41-52.
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Links to some devices which combine 630 nm and 850 nm:
FDA-approved devices ensure safety and regulatory compliance, however the panels are more powerful:
Omnilux(tm) Mask (FDA clearance)
Very affordable panel (no FDA clearance)
Affordable panel (no FDA clearance)

IPL stands for Intense Pulsed Light. The device applies gentle pulses of light to the hair root, putting the follicle into a resting phase. It uses a source of adjusted broad-spectrum visible light to target specific structures, like melanin pigment in hairs. The light energy is absorbed and transferred as heat, causing damage to the hair follicle. As a consequence, the amount of hair growth gradually decreases. Repeating the treatment would leave your skin hair free and smooth. This sounds good enough for me to try out IPL at home. 

A few months ago I was given the opportunity to purchase the Philips Lumea Prestige, which is a home-device for IPL (not the same as laser) hair removal, with a discount. Although sceptic about the promised benefit, I started to use the device, as instructed ever 2 weeks and have finished the basic sessions of 4 times. My unwanted hair growth isn't much and the colour isn't dark, however I dislike even the slightest feeling or visual of having a "beard" on my legs or armpits. It would be so much easier, if I wouldn't feel the need to razor it away every few days. 

About Philips Lumea Prestige
Philips claims that the treatment is safe and gentle, even on sensitive areas. Philips Lumea is clinically tested and developed with dermatologists. Their studies show up to 92% hair reduction in as little as 3 treatments. The first 4 treatments must be carried out every 2 weeks, after which you should already be able to see the desired results. To maintain your results, simply touch up every 4 weeks. After just 8 touch-up treatments you can be hair-free for 6 months.

Philips Lumea Prestige works for a variety of hair and skin types from naturally dark blonde, brown and black hair and on skin tones from very white to dark brown. As with other IPL-based treatments, Philips Lumea cannot be used to treat white/grey, light blonde or red hair and is not suitable for very dark skin. This is due to the high contrast required between the pigment in the hair colour and the pigment in the skin tone. Therefore it's also not recommended for those who love to maintain a tanned skin, and use it pre- or post tanning sessions. The device can be used in many areas and even has special attachments for sensitive, body and face.

My experience
The model I purchased can be used with and without cord. The first time, I had to reload the device when I was half-way on my second leg. Therefore every other treatment I was using the device with the cord and could avoid an empty battery and waiting for it to recharge. What I like is that there are no other "hidden" or additional cost involved. You buy the device, and it just works and will give long-term return-on-investment. I've started to notice a significant reduction of hair regrowth already after 2 sessions and can honestly say that my legs feel smoother with a noticeable decreased number of hairs and hardly need to use a razor in between sessions. After 4 sessions I don't need to shave or use the Lumea for weeks and actually almost forgot about my unwanted hair. Therewith I am very satisfied with the results. 

The use of the device is very easy when you follow the instructions. It's recommended to shave prior to use. Place the device on dry skin and wait for the "ready" button at the backside to light up, press the button and a red flash will appear then move it over to another spot. Repeat till you've covered the area you want to treat. You can use several strengths (energy settings) from 1 to 5. 1 being low and 5 being high. I've been using 4 & 5, and did not find it painful. The feeling is hardly noticeable to slightly uncomfortable, however way more comfortable when compared to epilation devices, which I consider painful. One leg takes me around 10 minutes, so it's not very time consuming. The red flashes can be a bit annoying for the eyes, therefore I look away during the flash.

Conclusion
I am really impressed with the results that I got from this home-device and did not expect it to work that well. It is (probably) less effective than IPL treatments done by professionals. If you like to reduce razor use, or dislike epilation or waxing and desire to be more care-free about unwanted hair growth, it is worth to further investigate if this or a similar approved home device, laser hair removal or IPL by a professional could be suitable for you. If you suffer from any skin disease or pigmentation problem, talk to your dermatologist before using any home device! 

Take care.

Interesting study IPL face:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4509583/
 
​This post is not sponsored.