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Live your best life & take care​

9/2/2018 Comments

Safety checklist eye cosmetics

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Safe use of cosmetics and care products is particularly important for the sensitive eye area. If you've ever or never had a problem, here is how you can avoid them.. 

Irritation
If any eye cosmetic or care product causes irritation, stop using it immediately. If irritation persists, see a health care provider.

Infection
Avoid using eye cosmetics if you have an eye infection or the skin around the eye is inflamed. Wait until the area is healed. Discard any eye cosmetics you were using when you got the infection. Be aware that there are bacteria on your hands that, if placed in the eye, could cause infections. 

Hygiene
Wash your hands before applying eye cosmetics. Make sure that any instrument you place in the eye area is clean. Don't share your cosmetics. Another person's microflora may be hazardous for you.

Packaging
Don't allow cosmetics to become covered with dust or contaminated with dirt or soil. Keep containers and nozzles clean. Don't use old containers or eye cosmetics and don't re-use containers. Never trust a product that smells funky, looks dirty, or past the open-jar time.

Mascara
Discard dried-up mascara. Don't add saliva or water to moisten it. The bacteria from your mouth may grow in the mascara and cause infection. Adding water may introduce bacteria and will dilute the preservative that is intended to protect against microbial growth. Manufacturers usually recommend discarding mascara two to four months after purchase.

Storage
Don't store cosmetics at temperatures above 85 degrees F or 30 degrees Celsius. Cosmetics held for long periods in hot cars, for example, are more susceptible to deterioration and bacteria. Some products are best stored in the refrigerator. Read the leaflet or follow the instructions how to best store the product.

Application
When applying or removing eye cosmetics, be careful not to scratch the eyeball or other sensitive area. Never apply or remove eye cosmetics in a moving vehicle. Don't use any cosmetics near your eyes unless they are intended specifically for that use. For instance, don't use a lip liner as an eye liner. You may be exposing your eyes to contamination from your mouth, or to color additives that are not approved for use in the area of the eye. Avoid color additives that are not approved for use in the area of the eye, such as "permanent" eyelash tints and kohl. 

Tools
​If you use make-up brushes or sponges, clean them every week with a special product or soap. Give them additionally from time to time an extra spritz with a disinfectant.

Don't mix it up

Sometimes you might feel to mix several products or add something to the product. Problems can arise if you challenge a product’s preservative capability, which is optimal and tested only with the original formula and packaging.

Check ingredient list
As with any cosmetic product sold to consumers, eye cosmetics are required to have an ingredient declaration on the label. Check if there is anything listed you don't tolerate or like. If the product doesn't have the ingredients listed, the product may be considered misbranded and illegal. Do the same for adhesives used for lash extensions or false lashes.

Be aware of testers
Keep in mind when you come across “testers” at retail stores that they might be contaminated. If you do sample cosmetics at a store, be sure to use single-use applicators, such as clean cotton swabs. Check how the store maintains their testers. If possible, ask for a sample, especially for care products. Using a few applications gives you a better idea about the compatibility (how well your skin tolerates the product), if you like the 
texture and enjoy the product. 

​Take care.

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9/2/2018 Comments

Dermaplaning

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Dermaplaning is an exfoliation method done by dermatologists, plastic surgeons or aestheticians using a 10 gauge scalpel to gently scrape off the top layer of dulling dead skin cells in order to reveal a smoother fresh skin surface. 

Furthermore you achieve a smoother make-up application as it also removes facial hair and peach fuzz or vellus hair. Cosmetic dermatologists sometimes use dermaplaning to help to prepare the skin for procedures like laser treatments and chemical peels as it creates a more optimal "canvas" to work with. As the top layer of the skin is removed, it would allow better penetration of skincare products.

Dermaplaning
 is supposed to be suitable for almost all skin types except those with active acneic skin. However, I would be careful if you have fragile skin, are prone to get broken capillaries, red dots or redness.  If done well, the procedure is painless and is comparable to shaving. Prior to the procedure, the skin will need to be cleaned and dried. Sometimes AHA and BHA (Alpha & Beta Hydroxy Acids) or a combination of both are used as preparation. The skin is pulled taut with one hand, and in the other hand a sterile 10 gauge blade (scalpel) is placed on the skin in a 45 degree angle. With short strokes, the dead skin cells and peach fuzz is "shaved" off. 

Dermaplaning instantly improves the skin's texture. The skin surface will feel very smooth. There is no downtime, however you may be left with some redness or sensitivity. It is claimed that vellus hair does not regrow darker or stronger, it just might feel different as the ends are cut off straight. However, speaking to dermatologists with experience in dermaplaning, they gave a clear warning that they did see a more coarse hair regrowth in costumers with darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick scale 3 or higher). 

There are some devices developed for dermaplaning at home. One of those devices is called Dermaflash and the device is shown in the article picture. It's currently only available in the US. I did try the Dermaflash. The design looks aesthetically pleasing, but found it to be quite large, thus suitable for bigger areas like the cheeks, however more difficult to use when more precision is requered around the brows, lips and nose. Some use a smaller and very affordable eyebrow razor. Although you may get satisfactory results after using a home device, the safest and best results you will obtain when dermaplaning is done by a professional. The treatment results will keep approximately 3 - 4 weeks. Ask your health care provider if dermaplaning would be a suitable exfoliation method for you. Personally, I prefer the use of gentle acids over any mechanical form of exfoliation, however both methods don't remove facial vellus hair. That could be a valid reason to opt for dermaplaning. Don't forget to use adequate sunscreen afterwards.
​

click here to read more about chemical vs mechanical exfoliation

Take care.

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9/1/2018 Comments

Philips Lumea Prestige IPL hair removal at home

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IPL stands for Intense Pulsed Light. The device applies gentle pulses of light to the hair root, putting the follicle into a resting phase. It uses a source of adjusted broad-spectrum visible light to target specific structures, like melanin pigment in hairs. The light energy is absorbed and transferred as heat, causing damage to the hair follicle. As a consequence, the amount of hair growth gradually decreases. Repeating the treatment would leave your skin hair free and smooth. This sounds good enough for me to try out IPL at home. 

A few months ago I was given the opportunity to purchase the Philips Lumea Prestige, which is a home-device for IPL (not the same as laser) hair removal, with a discount. Although sceptic about the promised benefit, I started to use the device, as instructed ever 2 weeks and have finished the basic sessions of 4 times. My unwanted hair growth isn't much and the colour isn't dark, however I dislike even the slightest feeling or visual of having a "beard" on my legs or armpits. It would be so much easier, if I wouldn't feel the need to razor it away every few days. 

About Philips Lumea Prestige
Philips claims that the treatment is safe and gentle, even on sensitive areas. Philips Lumea is clinically tested and developed with dermatologists. Their studies show up to 92% hair reduction in as little as 3 treatments. The first 4 treatments must be carried out every 2 weeks, after which you should already be able to see the desired results. To maintain your results, simply touch up every 4 weeks. After just 8 touch-up treatments you can be hair-free for 6 months.

Philips Lumea Prestige works for a variety of hair and skin types from naturally dark blonde, brown and black hair and on skin tones from very white to dark brown. As with other IPL-based treatments, Philips Lumea cannot be used to treat white/grey, light blonde or red hair and is not suitable for very dark skin. This is due to the high contrast required between the pigment in the hair colour and the pigment in the skin tone. Therefore it's also not recommended for those who love to maintain a tanned skin, and use it pre- or post tanning sessions. The device can be used in many areas and even has special attachments for sensitive, body and face.

My experience
The model I purchased can be used with and without cord. The first time, I had to reload the device when I was half-way on my second leg. Therefore every other treatment I was using the device with the cord and could avoid an empty battery and waiting for it to recharge. What I like is that there are no other "hidden" or additional cost involved. You buy the device, and it just works and will give long-term return-on-investment. I've started to notice a significant reduction of hair regrowth already after 2 sessions and can honestly say that my legs feel smoother with a noticeable decreased number of hairs and hardly need to use a razor in between sessions. After 4 sessions I don't need to shave or use the Lumea for weeks and actually almost forgot about my unwanted hair. Therewith I am very satisfied with the results. 

The use of the device is very easy when you follow the instructions. It's recommended to shave prior to use. Place the device on dry skin and wait for the "ready" button at the backside to light up, press the button and a red flash will appear then move it over to another spot. Repeat till you've covered the area you want to treat. You can use several strengths (energy settings) from 1 to 5. 1 being low and 5 being high. I've been using 4 & 5, and did not find it painful. The feeling is hardly noticeable to slightly uncomfortable, however way more comfortable when compared to epilation devices, which I consider painful. One leg takes me around 10 minutes, so it's not very time consuming. The red flashes can be a bit annoying for the eyes, therefore I look away during the flash.

Conclusion

I am really impressed with the results that I got from this home-device and did not expect it to work that well. It is (probably) less effective than IPL treatments done by professionals. If you like to reduce razor use, or dislike epilation or waxing and desire to be more care-free about unwanted hair growth, it is worth to further investigate if this or a similar approved home device, laser hair removal or IPL by a professional could be suitable for you. If you suffer from any skin disease or pigmentation problem, talk to your dermatologist before using any home device! 

Take care.

Interesting study IPL face:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4509583/
 
​This post is not sponsored. 



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    ABOUT THIS SITE AND ME

    There is an overwhelming variety of contradicting information and opinions, leaving us all a bit confused. As a hybrid between an expert, scientist and skinfluencer, I will attempt to detangle and debunk skin or related topics one after the other. It might be a long journey, as our knowledge gets deeper, our innovations faster, our demands higher and our dreams bigger. I hope you will find this blog informative, useful and wish you enjoy many visits and don't hesitate to leave your comments in the comment box.

    "Live your best life & take care"

    I hold a full-time job a senior global medical & innovation manager in a top tier German skin care company. My specialty is frequently referred to as "anti-ageing". As anti-ageist I rather call it regenerative skin care and procedures. My passion is my profession: everything related to skin care, dermatology and aesthetics. 

    This is my private blog, all opinions expressed are my own & 100% honest.

    ​All rights reserved. The information provided is not intended as substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek professional medical advice from your physician or other qualified healthcare provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition or problem. ​

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