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![]() Lipid peroxidation is a chemical process involving the oxidative degradation of lipids, particularly polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs). This process occurs naturally during aging and can be induced by external factors such as UV radiation, pollution, and cigarette smoke when free radicals, especially reactive oxygen species (ROS), interact with lipids in cell membranes. The initial interaction generates lipid radicals and lipid peroxides, which can then react with additional oxidizing agents, creating a cascading chain reaction that leads to oxidative stress and significant cellular damage [1]. While sebum (the oily substance produced by sebaceous glands) primarily consists of saturated and monounsaturated fatty acids, it also contains smaller quantities of polyunsaturated fatty acids. Lipid peroxidation plays a role in various skin conditions, including acne and signs of photoaging [2][3], rosacea, psoriasis and eczema. ![]() OILY SKIN AND LIPID PEROXIDATION Oily skin types are particularly vulnerable to lipid peroxidation due to higher sebum (lipid) production and concentration at the skin surface. Sebum, an oily substance produced by sebaceous glands, is composed of various lipids, including triglycerides, free fatty acids, and squalene. When exposed to environmental stressors such as UV radiation and pollution [3], sebum components can undergo oxidation, leading to: 1. Altered composition: Oxidation changes the sebum's composition, resulting in the formation of comedogenic substances that can clog pores and initiate inflammatory processes associated with acne [4]. 2. Squalene oxidation: Squalene, a major component of sebum, is highly susceptible to oxidation. When oxidized, it generates harmful byproducts that contribute to inflammation and skin conditions like acne [4][5]. 3. Increased membrane permeability: Oxidation alters the fluidity and integrity of the skin's lipid barrier, making it more permeable and susceptible to further oxidative damage [6][7]. 4. Changed sebum consistency: The products of lipid peroxidation can accumulate and change the composition of sebum, leading to thicker consistency and potential blockage of hair follicles, which is a precursor to acne formation [5]. INFLAMMATORY RESPONSES AND ANTIOXIDANT CAPACITY Lipid peroxidation triggers inflammatory responses in the skin. The oxidized lipids can act as signaling molecules that promote inflammation, leading to conditions such as acne vulgaris. Increased levels of lipid peroxides correlate with inflammatory lesions in acne patients [4][6]. Oily skin types often experience an imbalance in antioxidant defenses. Deficiencies in antioxidants like vitamins E and C are common in those suffering from acne, which can exacerbate oxidative stress and promote lipid peroxidation [2]. Although sebum contains some antioxidants (like vitamin E), excessive oxidative stress from environmental factors can overwhelm these defenses, leading to increased lipid peroxidation and subsequent skin damage. FERROPTOSIS AND SKIN HEALTH Lipid peroxidation often initiates the process of ferroptosis. It occurs when the cell's antioxidant defenses, particularly the glutathione peroxidase 4 (GPX4) enzyme, fail to neutralize lipid peroxides. When lipids are damaged by oxidative stress, they generate lipid peroxides, which can accumulate and become toxic to cells. When lipid peroxides reach critical levels, they trigger ferroptosis, leading to ferroptosis a form of regulated cell death. PREVENTING LIPID PEROXIDATION Its clear that managing lipid pre-oxidation will be beneficial, especially for oily skin and to reduce its impact, you can try: 1. Antioxidant-rich skincare: Incorporating topical products containing antioxidants such as vitamins C and E, and Licochalcone A can help neutralize free radicals and prevent oxidative damage to lipids [2]. Licochalcone A has been shown to inhibit lipid peroxidation in keratinocytes (the main cell type in the epidermis) induced by UV radiation [8], and in human dermal fibroblasts exposed to hydrogen peroxide [9]. 2. Melatonin: The hormone melatonin, is widely present in various tissues including the skin and regulates circadian rhythms and promotes sleep. Melatonin can penetrate membranes and mitigate lipid peroxidation and protein oxidation, as well as oxidative damage to the mitochondria and DNA caused by UVR [10]. 3. Daily cleansing and regular exfoliation: Using non-abrasive exfoliants like salicylic acid or glycolic acid and daily cleansing can help remove oxidized lipids and pollution particles or dirt from the skin's surface, preventing clogged pores and reducing the risk of acne formation [4]. Try to avoid overcleansing or overexfolliation, not because the skin “compensates” by increasing the sebum production (which is a myth), however because you might damage the skin barrier. 4. Sun protection: Exposure to UV light generates reactive oxygen species (ROS), which can initiate lipid peroxidation in sebum. This process leads to the formation of lipid hydroperoxides and other oxidized lipids that can disrupt skin barrier function and promote inflammation [5]. Applying broad-spectrum sunscreen daily protects against UV-induced oxidative stress which contributes to lipid peroxidation [3]. Sunscreens containing antioxidants (like Licochalcone A) can provide additional protection. 5. Healthy diet: Consuming a diet rich in omega-3 fatty acids, fruits, and vegetables can enhance the skin's antioxidant defenses and reduce inflammation associated with lipid peroxidation [2]. 6. Avoiding environmental stressors: Reducing exposure to pollutants and smoking can minimize oxidative stress on the skin. ![]() 7. Sebum regulating topical ingredients: There are several evidence based skin care ingredients. I will highlight one called L-Carnitine. L-Carnitine is a skin’s own amino acid derivative is produced from the amino acids lysine and methionine. It supports sebum regulation through several mechanisms: ▌Increased β-oxidation (“fat burning”): L-carnitine significantly augments β-oxidation in human sebocytes, which is the process by which fatty acids are broken down [11]. This leads to a decrease in intracellular lipid content. ▌Sebum secretion reduction: Topical application of a 2% L-carnitine formulation for 3 weeks significantly decreased the sebum secretion [11]. ▌Bio-availability: Topically applied L-carnitine is bioavailable and can reach the dermis, allowing it to interact with sebaceous glands [11]. 8. Mattifying pigments: Mattifying pigments can be beneficial for oily skin, as they help absorb excess sebum and reduce shine. These pigments typically include ingredients such as clays, minerals, starches, polymers, charcoals, and silicas. 9. Blotting papers are thin, absorbent sheets designed to absorb thus remove excess oil from the skin's surface, providing a temporary matte appearance [12]. 10. Powder: Powder with ingredients like silica or talc, can absorb some oil and provide a matte finish. However, I would not recommend to apply a powder several times per day, because you are building up a “dirt layer” on top of the skin. Always consult a qualified healthcare professional to determine what the most suitable approach is for your skin health and beauty. Take care Anne-Marie References: [1] Ayala A, Muñoz MF, Argüelles S. Lipid peroxidation: malondialdehyde and 4-hydroxy-2-nonenal. Oxid Med Cell Longev. 2014;2014:360438. doi:10.1155/2014/360438. [2] Briganti S, Picardo M. Antioxidant activity and lipid peroxidation in skin diseases. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2003;17(6):663-9. doi:10.1046/j.1468-3083.2003.00751.x. [3] Niki E. Lipid oxidation in skin. Free Radic Res. 2015;49(7):827-34. doi:10.3109/10715762.2014.976213. [4] Bowe WP, Logan AC. Lipid peroxidation in acne vulgaris. Lipids Health Dis. 2010;9:141. doi:10.1186/1476-511X-9-141. [5] Picardo M, Ottaviani M, Camera E, Mastrofrancesco A. Sebaceous gland lipids. Dermatoendocrinol. 2009;1(2):68-71. doi:10.4161/derm.1.2.8472. [6] Yadav DK, Kumar S, Choi EH, et al. Dynamics of oxidized skin lipid bilayer and ROS permeability. Sci Rep. 2019;9:4496. doi:10.1038/s41598-019-40913-y. [7] Ludovici M, Kozul N, Materazzi S, et al. Sebaceous gland density and stratum corneum lipidome. Sci Rep. 2018;8:11500. doi:10.1038/s41598-018-29742-7. [8] Kim HK, Kim JH, Lee SJ, Lee HS. Licochalcone A inhibits lipid peroxidation in keratinocytes from UV radiation. J Invest Dermatol. 2005;125(5):1009-16. doi:10.1111/j.0022-202X.2005.23845.x. [9] Huang J, Wang Z, Liu Y. Licochalcone A protects human dermal fibroblasts from hydrogen peroxide damage. Mol Med Rep. 2013;7(6):1977-82. doi:10.3892/mmr.2013.1397. [10] Bocheva G et al. Protective Role of Melatonin and Its Metabolites in Skin Aging. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2022;23:1238. [11] Peirano RI, et al. Topically applied L-carnitine effectively reduces sebum secretion in human skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2012;11(11):30-36. [12] Wu PC, et al. Blotting paper as a disposable tool for sampling chemical residues from skin surface. J Food Drug Anal. 2019;27(2):610-613.
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